Monday, January 11, 2010

A Vertical Tasting of Swanson Vineyards Salon Chardonnay, Vintages 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008

Once upon a time I was ready to give up on New World Chardonnay. More than anything though it was really California Chardonnay I’d grown weary of. So many of the wines I tasted were overburdened with oak to the point of blunting the fruit. The litany of jokes made in tasting rooms and elsewhere about these wines could easily fill a book. I’m not sure anyone is printing joke books these days. If they were though there’s lots of material. It got to the point where I found it tiresome to even try new Chardonnays. Many of them, were high scored, and well regarded, yet there was a seeming avalanche of sawdust in my mouth. So I drank mostly Chablis, when I had the chance, and when I felt adventurous I’d try one from California.

Then one incredibly fateful day I made my first visit to Swanson Vineyards Salon in Napa Valley. While I liked the first wine they poured Rosato, I was dubious when then Salonnier Shawn Larue said the next wine was Chardonnay. I must have made a face because Shawn assured me that what I was about to taste was not a typical over oaked wine that was in fashion for many years. I thanked him for mentioning it but inside I thought “we’ll see about that.” From the first sip the Swanson Chardonnay was nothing short of a revelation. The fruit starred gloriously and there was complexity to spare. “That’s amazing,” were the first words I recall uttering after the very first sips I ever took of Swanson Chardonnay. More than anything it reminded me of a fine Chablis. I  Joined their wine club soon after in large part so I could have guaranteed access to the Chardonnay. It’s only made in small quantities and if there’s any left after the wine club gets their allotment you can get some through the Salon. I wasn’t taking that chance. I’ve come to love the Swanson portfolio of wines in general. The Chardonnay though, for my money, there isn’t a finer one in Napa Valley.

I was recently going through my cellar and realized I had four vintages of the Chardonnay on hand. It was obvious that the only thing to do was invite some friends over for a vertical tasting. What follows are some of my impressions about these wines and how they’re currently tasting.

The Swanson Chardonnay is available through the Salon in Rutherford. The suggested retail price for the current vintage (2008) is $36.

Swanson Vineyards 2005 Salon Chardonnay – This wine has changed remarkably in the time since it was released. Much of the fruit has dropped off at this point. The spice and mineral elements which were always present have pushed to the fore front. This now lean, mineral laden wine turned out to be the favorite of most during the vertical tasting. A nice showcase for the potential longevity of well made, balanced, white wines.

Swanson Vineyards 2006 Salon Chardonnay – This wine is definitely transitioning at this time. The mineral component is present as are hints of minerals. However they’re not as prominent as on the 2005. There is more fruit present right now. I’ll be curious to see how it develops further over the next year and if it gets to the second life the 2005 is currently enjoying.

Swanson Vineyards 2007 Salon Chardonnay – Of the four vintages this is probably the one drinking at closest to its peak efficacy right now. It’s all about personal taste of course but the 2007 still now has all the glorious fruit this Chardonnay features in its youth. There’s plenty of complexity as well with spice, mineral notes and the great length this wine traditionally features. An excellent vintage of a very consistent wine in its peak drinking window.

Swanson Vineyards 2008 Salon Chardonnay – This is the current vintage of this wine, released this past August. Not surprisingly this vintage currently has the biggest fruit of the bunch. Gentle hints of butter are present along with the classic spice elements. Mineral notes are just starting to eek out of this wine and I suspect they’ll become much more prominent over time. While it’s delicious now, history tells me that to my taste I’m going to like this wine even more in about 5-6 months.

Vertical tastings can be fascinating and instructive. This one was no different. While everyone had their favorites, for a variety of reasons, there was some consensus. Regardless of how much the older vintages have evolved, the house style, we agreed was evident throughout. While age and of course vintage variation play a strong role, the consistent quality of the Swanson Salon Chardonnay from year to year was on display.

So the moral of the story here is two-fold. First of all if you like a varietal, don’t give up on it if you run across some examples you don’t like. You may eventually find one you love. The tide may also shift as it has with California Chardonnay. Of course the oak laden butter bombs are still out there. Thankfully though there are less then of them than before. The other part of the story? If you like excellent Chardonnay, that has fruit, complexity, and a good bit of longevity, do what you have to and get your hands on a bottle of Swanson Salon Chardonnay.

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[Via http://gabesview.com]

60 seconds - The Average decision making time to order restaurant wine

A recent study found that the average consumer takes 60 seconds with a restaurant wine list before making a selection. This particular statistic speaks volumes. It means that we reach for what is familiar, that we are intimidated by the unfamiliar and that we don’t want to think too much when confronted with a wine list.

Tip: When ordering wine at a restaurant remember that some restaurateurs bank on your insecurity when it comes to navigating a wine list. Most amateurs play it safe by choosing the second cheapest wine on the list. These wines are normally the wines which has the biggest mark-up,  so beware.

Source: cityweekly.net

[Via http://douglasgreen.wordpress.com]

Adirondack Winery's "Spice Up Your Winter" FREE Wine Tasting Event

YOU’RE INVITED!! Adirondack Winery’s “Spice up Your Winter” FREE Wine Tasting Event When: Sat., Jan. 16 11:30am – 5:30pm AND Sun., Jan. 17 11:30am – 3:30pm   Where: Adirondack Winery & Tasting Room, 285 Canada Street, Lake George, NY

 

Catch a break from the bitter cold of the New Year by enjoying this FREE wine tasting event at Adirondack Winery!   For this event, we’re going to prepare some of our wines with mulling spices. These delightful concoctions will give you that “warm & fuzzy” feeling we all crave during winter!   Let the aromas and flavors of our wines mixed with spices like cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, brown sugar, and more warm you up inside.   To top it off, we’ll also have a number of home-baked treats that make excellent pairings for the mulled wines. (See Details Below)  

 

Mulled Merlot Paired with Chocolate Chip Cookies   Mulled Pinot Grigio Paired with Sugar Spice Cookies   Mulled Zinfandel Paired with Almonds and Raisins   Mulled Viognier Paired with Gingersnaps

 

Become a Fan and See this Event on Facebook:   See this event on Eventful   Check Out our Blog:   Follow Adirondack Winery on Twitter: 

 

 

Adirondack Winery & Tasting Room / 285 Canada Street, Lake George, NY 12845 

(518) 668-WINE / www.AdirondackWinery.com / http://store.adirondackwinery.com

[Via http://adirondackwinery.wordpress.com]

Friday, January 8, 2010

Day 62 (1/7/10): The Birds

I left out one very important detail about the sixth. In that hour Christine was late, I met somebody else. You figure with all the people shuffling in and out and around Grand Central, this isn’t much of an accomplishment, but I managed to meet somebody who spends a third of their day in this building. No I didn’t pick up a mid-life train conductor, or a lovely janitor. I met a book shop girl while perusing the fictions. I was basically standing there reading Juliet Naked before she chimed in that it was a book store, not a library. I told her that at least Barnes & Noble has comfortable chairs…before looking around and noticing that there were, in fact, no chairs in this busy book emporium. She just smiled at me with her horn-rimmed glasses and messy pony tail. I told her I’d give in and buy the book, if she’d go out with me. She just shook her head at me, grabbed the book and walked it to the register ringing it up. I was overjoyed that that dubious method actually worked, but then when she was done taking my credit card, and having me sign it I was still 7 digits away from my goal. As I was about to ask her what about the date, she interrupted me and said, “Have a good day Mr. Dillinger, pleasant reading”.

Dejected I walked around to wait for Christine. And then when I got home I opened the book up, pulled out the complimentary book mark, and noticed the phone number on it. In an age of texting and number exchanges there was something refreshingly charming about a girl who took the effort to write her number down. I think the little scraps of paper with numbers on them, while easy to lose, are a touch that is long since vanished in this world. And I don’t think this is for the better. Theres something to be said for physical proof of an accomplishment. You can have that number as a keepsake, and a trophy. It isn’t just another in a long list of phone contacts that you play russian roulette with while drunk dialing.

So I called Mia and we set up plans for the next evening. I scanned Time Out and was lucky enough to find a poetry reading going on that night. We arrived early, scanned the place for a table and ordered a bottle of wine.  Off the bat she asked me one of the strangest/best first date questions, “Name Your Top Three Cereals”

In the following order I listed them. Cocoa Puffs, Corn Flakes, Fruit Loops.

She told me I must have a thing for birds. I immediately corrected her that I actually hated/feared them.

Why?

Hitchcock.

Oh come on you can’t be afraid of something from a Hitchcock movie.

Birds, spies, guys named Norman,  parties where the host is dead in the center of the room, showering alone, seaside towns, strangers on a train, beds & breakfasts.

B&bs?

I’m pretty sure I’m going to brutally murdered in a quaint little bed and breakfast at some point in my life…but the birds I’m most petrified of. To this day I still won’t go into the Enchanted Tiki Room.

Even though they have great taste in cereal?

Even so, that bird is literally crazy over that cereal. I figure we can share a common interest if they get intelligent enough to start offing mankind. I eat the cereal with him, we bond. And then I find a toucan and we share a Guinness.

What about women?

Those kinds of birds are the most likely to peck me to death.

She couldn’t help but laugh at my neurosis. The wine helped I’m sure.  And then I got her answer which was abysmally average. She hit me with Apple Jacks. Apple Jacks and me don’t get along, but me and Mia certain did.  We had some wine, listened to semi-okay poetry. I may be well read, but I’ve never been one to get remotely into poetry. She seemed to enjoy it though. She shared glances with me, the Merlot, and the poet…while I was off in my head thinking about cereal, stouts, and other birds.

[Via http://100girls100days.com]

Michael's New York's Winter Wines By the Glass Program

We are so excited to be able to offer you this amazing selection of wines by the glass. Our sommelier Seth hand-picked each selection to complement our winter menu perfectly, and shares his tasting notes here.

MICHAEL’S NEW YORK WINTER WINE BY THE GLASS PROGRAM 2010

BUBBLES

PROSECCO, VALLIS MARENI, UMBRA, EXTRA DRY NV $10/gl. The nose is fruity-intense, yet elegant. Clear scents of golden apples come through a floral background. It is a dry wine, fresh and lean, soft and rounded, with good length and a pleasantly fruity finish.

DEUTZ, BRUT, NV, Äy $20/ gl.  Deep golden hue with very fine bubbles. On the nose, floral aromas, toasted bread, almond paste, ripe grapefruit, and a touch of lemon peel. “On the palate one finds the freshness of the Chardonnay grape, the unctuous power of Pinot Noir and the suppleness of Pinot Meunier, brought together in an elegant ensemble” – Wine Spectator. It is dry, with clean, fresh acidity going right through to the finish. A really top-notch glass of sparkles, great for beginnings, shellfish, gravlax, salads.

TAITTINGER ROSE NV $24/gl.  30% Chardonnay, 70% Pinot Noir. This is a very subtle, delicate, and intense wine showing bright red fruits (crushed wild raspberries, cherries, and blackcurrants) on the palate, with a very long, intense, dry finish. A stunning aperitif.

WHITES

RIESLING, HEXAMER, SPATLESE, NAHE 2003 $12/gl.  This beautiful Riesling is off-dry with big peach, pear, and fresh apples on the nose, followed by a ripe fruit palate with firm acidity. Round notes give way to a leanish finish with mouthwatering appeal.

CHARDONNAY, PETIT CHAPEAU, MACON – VILLAGES 2007 $13/gl. “Little Hat” has aromas of lemon zest, pear skin, and green apple, complemented by a touch of spice. Focused citrus and orchard fruit flavors, juicy and fresh, with tangy acidity and minerality.

SAUVIGNON BLANC, DOMAINE GIRARD, SANCERRE, LOIRE 2008 $15/gl.  This wine is everything one hopes for when thinking about Sancerre. It is bright, lively, pleasantly aromatic, with a focus tending towards grapefruit, lime, and herbs with zippy acidity but low astringency. It is a wonderful food wine that is as versatile as it is easy to drink.

ARNEIS, PALMINA, SANTA YNEZ VALLEY, 2008 $14/gl. Medium-bodied, golden-green in color, with bright citrus on the nose leaning towards an almost key lime pie note. Pears, lemongrass, and baking spice mix with lively acidity on the palate. Long finish with a touch of almonds. Great with fish, beets, salads.

PINOT GRIGIO, ZANOTELLI, TRENTINO 2007 $14/gl. This small-production wine is not your everyday Pinot Grigio. SBig and bold with bright acidity, pears, and fruit. Full bodied, dry, and crisp. Great with most things.

CHARDONNAY, MER SOLEIL, MONTEREY 2007 $20/gl. A classic California Chardonnay. Big, rich nose, with light notes of honeysuckle, truffle, and buttery oak. Full, layered flavors of tropical fruit are balanced by a bright acidity of sweet citrus, and linger though the long, creamy finish.

REDS

PINOT NOIR, THE MALIBU VINEYARD, RAMBLA PACIFICO, MALIBU 2006 $20/gl.  From the vineyard that surrounds Michael McCarty’s Malibu hillside home overlooking the Pacific, this unique California Pinot Noir combines the best of the state’s classic Pinot Noir characteristics with the best of Oregon style. The nose is a mixture of just-ripening strawberries, cherries, and hints of soft cola, with a touch of earthiness. On the palate, the cherries come forward first in their freshness, then mix with and give way to the strawberry notes, which progress from fresh to preserves. The 2006 vintage has softness in the mouth, with a nice medium body. The finish is mouthwatering, making this wine pair exceptionally well with gamier poultry such as quail and duck, as well as with our burger, steak, and lamb.

BAROLO, CAVALOTTO, BRICCO BOSCHIS, 2000 $20/gl.  The 2000 vintage produced Barolos of great ripeness and exuberance. It is a real treat to be able to offer this outstanding wine by the glass. A balsamic nose of spices, menthol, and licorice, followed by deep layers of dark fruit and tar. Soft and deep, with fully balanced acid makes this a rock star of a wine.

SYRAH, BOX CAR, SONOMA COAST 2007 $14/gl . Deep purple in color, this Syrah has a great, rich mouthfeel with decent acidity and surprisingly smooth tannins for such a young wine. A nose of Rainier cherries, Earl Grey tea, black fruit, and white pepper with undertones of herb-scented lamb. On the palate, you get the same fruit and pepper with a nice spice to the finish.

CABERNET SAUVIGNON, DUNHAM CELLARS, THREE LEGGED RED, COLUMBIA VALLEY 2007 $16/gl. Beautiful full-bodied wines are coming out of Washington State, and this blend of 80% Cabernet with a little Merlot and Syrah is one of them. Big, soft red/black fruits up front, with a touch of jamminess on the finish. Medium/full body.

MERLOT, CODE NOIR, RATTLESNAKE HILLS 2007 $15/gl.  Another Washington State standout made by the sommelier from The French Laundry. Blending 90% Merlot, softened and filled out with Petit Verdot and Malbec. Bits of olives and black fruit on the nose. A touch spicy with jam. Full body, good tannins and acidity. A great food wine.

NEGROMARO, TORMARESCA, MASSERIA MAIME SALENTO , APULIA 2000 $14/gl. Made by the famous Antinori family, this wine is earthy with spice. Prune and black fruit on the palate. Long finish ends with menthol and minerals. Great with meats and big cheeses

Our reds available by the glass.

[Via http://michaelsrestaurants.wordpress.com]

0296, apt 1106.

Liz stopped by to pick up a reading she couldn’t get at school and I am pretty much stoked because, regarding my entry from 2 hours ago, her visit helped a lot.  We sat for about an hour and half over a glass of red (that I didn’t drink earlier because, as much as I try to convince myself to enjoy a glass of red alone, I never do) and talked about everything under the sun.  She was glad she came over and I obviously am, considering the way I felt and how discouraged my soul was.  It’s funny how things are happening in my life these days.  I have constructed a positive framework for myself and even in my low or lowest moments, something counteracts the negativity habouring me and pulls me out of it so quickly I can barely blink.  This isn’t the first incident of this sort but it’s something that I will now categorize (via this blog) under neat things that happen in life.  If you don’t think this can happen to you, let’s do lunch!

(Do I sound like an infomercial?)

I feel so much better, so much more positive, and so much more buzzed than I did two hours ago.  Now onwards and upwards to King Solomon’s Mines – a book I have to read and respond on for Wednesday. I have 0 of 176 pages read.

[Via http://stasisindarkness.wordpress.com]

Wednesday, January 6, 2010

Golan Heights Winery - a northern adventure

On January 1, 2010, after less than 4 (and in some cases less than 3 or 2) hours of sleep, my father, mother, sister, her best friend, and I hopped in a rented compact car at 7 am and proceeded to drive from Tel Aviv to the Golan Heights Winery…in the Golan Heights.

This is our story.

(cue Gilligan’s Island theme song)

A few bitchy fights, cramped snoozing, radio station surfing (we never did find one the entire drive), and a generally cranky 2.5 foggy hours later, we reached the region of our final destination — a full hour and a half early.

After I took the blame (and the beating) from everyone for depriving them of an extra hour’s sleep, we had a nice breakfast at a roadside cafe in the old town of Rosh Pina – a picturesque place (so I’m told – it really was super-foggy) just next to the historic, kabbalistically-famous city of Tzfat (aka Safed).  It was really far north.  We really did make amazing time.

At a bit after ten we proceeded to drive the remaining twenty minutes from Rosh Pina (just about directly north of the Sea of Galilee – what we call the Kineret -  a place that generally marks a border between the Galil region and the Golan region) to Katzrin, the tiny town (the largest town in the region) that is the home of the Golan Heights Winery.

Collectively owned by 4 kibbutzim (collective farms) and 4 moshavim (cooperative farms), the Golan Heights Winery began the Israeli wine revolution in 1983. Quite frankly, they make the best wine in Israel, consistently winning international awards and accolades.  They introduced many of the modern grape varieties to Israel, and produce more than 30 labels under three series (Yarden, Gamla, and Golan).

Aside: I work for them leading wine tastings, albeit on a very part-time basis. I love working for them.  I am more than a bit biased. But being a wine lover first and foremost, every trip I take to Katzrin to visit GHW is an exceptional treat.  You’re treated like family — and this is a state-of-the-art facility.

The main visitors’ center is closed for renovation the next 6 months, so a makeshift (if you can even call it that) center was rigged in the main administration building.  Despite Fridays being quite popular visitation days, it was quite empty there.  I’m used to seeing throngs of tourists, both domestic and otherwise.  Perhaps it was the winter, or the fact that many were probably nursing hangovers in their warm beds (which is where we half-halfheartedly wished to be).  Because of this fact, we had an almost private tour (with one quiet young couple tagging along).

After a brief history of wine, winemaking in the region, and the Golan Heights Winery itself, the tour guide (lovely woman named Ela) took us to the “wine cellar” — really the largest barrel storage building in the country, housing more than 7,000 gorgeous French oak vessels.

The tour ended with a wine tasting.  Perhaps because the visitors’ center was closed, or perhaps because there were so few people – we were shown to the private tasting room besides the vaults (or maybe a better word for it is ‘archive’) of wines that are kept just for the winemakers (and I expect, VIPs).  It was really fun, and the wines we were given really showed off the vast range they produce – starting with a very young Chardonnay (Golan 2008) – leading to a very hefty Syrah (Yarden 2005) – ending with such a treat, the Heightswine (Yarden 2007; play on words – made in the same fashion as Ice Wine).

My parents being my lovely parents bought me another bottle of the Single Vineyard Yarden Syrah (2004 – Ortal Vineyard) – my absolute favorite – at the gift shop, and we stocked up on a few other gems (Dad’s taking home another Syrah Ortal, a Cabernet Sauvignon Single Vineyard El-Rom 2004, and a Noble Semillion Botrytis, amongst other things).

The Hodes family being the Hodes family, the ride home was just as memorable, one squabble inevitably leading to another more colorful and more complex than the one before.  We stopped at an artists’ village, took a quick (15 minute) hike in a nature preserve to see a local waterfall, and then hit the road, unfortunately choosing the scenic route, back to city-dom.  We took a wrong turn twice, my father progressively became more and more ill (stuffed up sinuses from lack of sleep), and we took a very, very long detour in order to visit a Druze village (Dalyiat El-Carmel) to drink a quick coffee and stock up on hummus, tahini, salads, and pita — because the very wise Hodes clan had extended an invitation for dinner at our place to the rest of the family for that very evening — and there was no way we had the time, nor were we in the condition to cook.

We returned to Tel Aviv ten hours to the minute after we left.  The adventure wouldn’t end for several hours more.  And it would take the rest of the weekend to recover. A three hour tour, indeed.  Talk about almost 7 hours in a car for a 1 hour tour. That takes passion.  Or madness.  Or both.

I say, well worth the visit to Israel’s greatest winery.

Great businessweek article on the revolution in Israeli wine production

[Via http://irenesharonhodes.wordpress.com]