The weather has been marginally cooperative for my latest trip to farm country. We got about two good days running in the soybean fields before the rains started to fall. This forced us back to corn. The good news on that front is that only ten acres remain. Nothing more than a hat full as my cousin likes to say.
Though depressing and potentially deadly for all the grains, the rain gave me an opportunity to check out one of the local wineries here in Missouri. Wine in Missouri? I was skeptical. The dirt in these parts is excellent and will grow most anything but there is not much of a wine culture nor is there a history of one. This often has an adverse effect on the quality of the end product. Despite my skepticism, there is little to do in farm country when the weather is poor. Namely, sit in the beer joint and talk about the rain or visit a local winery. Having experienced the former, I wanted to try the latter.
New Oak Vineyards is about 60 miles from Kansas City and 15 miles from our farm. Surrounded by corn, bean and pasture fields, grape vines seem alien and out-of-place on this landscape. The juxtaposition is striking however and I am sure that is enough of a curiosity to draw customers if for no other reason. The tasting room is quaint and very similar to many small wineries. They have their wine and other wine related paraphernalia for sale and for five dollars one can taste all 14 wines they produce. There is a beautiful reception room as well as a nice terrace overlooking a pretty pond. Though the weather prohibited it on that particular day, I could see myself sitting back and taking in a sunset on that patio.
The first thing that struck me…I had never heard of any of their varietals save one: Norton which is grown in Virginia. That had me a little nervous and a little excited. This could be interesting and enlightening or require a fair amount of spitting. Chambourcin, Giuseppe, St. Vincent, Chardonel, Seyval, Vignoles among others were on the list. I couldn’t help thinking of an episode of the Simpsons where they go to get a new T.V. at an outlet where they encounter such premium name brands as “Sorny” and “Magnetbox.” That being said, my ignorance was no reason not to give them a chance. I tasted through, six reds, a rose, four whites, two fruit wines and a sweet wine. The verdict, I’m sorry to say I could not recommend any of them. To my palate, all of the flavor profiles were strange and borderline disagreeable. Lots of off vegetal components and funk that is o.k. in Burgundy but not in Giuseppe from Missouri.
Though I found the wine disappointing, I found the trip enlightening. Speaking with one of the proprietors I learned a great deal. There are some 93 vineyards currently operating in MO. They produce a wide range of grapes, granted most are obscure and didn’t seem to produce the best wine, but they are trying. The reason for this particular vineyard was a growing frustration with grain farming and all the trials that come with it. Unfortunately this vineyard seemed to be more a commercial venture than a passionate pursuit of great wine, but things have to start someplace. I am always intrigued to try wine from new places and see what different terriors have to offer. I am eager to check out some of the other 93 vineyards in Missouri to get a more complete idea of what they have to offer upon my next visit.
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